Deposit properties are the sameĪs those of Stoody 105 wire. Itīonds readily to carbon and low alloy steels. It provides good weldability and a high deposition rate. STOODY 1105 is a solid core electrode with an extruded coating containing theĪlloying elements. Part Number Pkg Dimensions Diameter x Length Amperage (AC, DC±) Machinable with carbide tools, non-magnetic.Īpplications: Shovel Pads, Roll Crushers, Hammers, Shovel Teeth, Grate Bars,Ĭarbon, Steel Frogs, Switch Points, Manganese Rail, ComponentsĪlloy Content – 31% (Manganese, Chromium, Nickel, Carbon, Silicon)Ģ Layers - 1020 Steel. Porosity-free, extremely tough and workhardens rapidly. Build-up is superior to otherĮlectrodes of this type. Weldability is excellent with low spatter. Welding Procedures/Characteristics: Can be applied AC or DC, reverse polarity. It is a modified highĬhromium-high manganese steel that combines toughness and wear Impact loading without limitations to deposit thickness. STOODY 2110 is a solid core extruded electrode with alloys in the coatingĭesigned for build-up of austenitic manganese steel parts subject to high I've tried to talk my Bro into swapping but he won't go for it.:D A long time blacksmith friend of his gave it to him when he shut down his shop. My brother has an anvil identical to mine that's in much better shape. There was a really nice 250# Peter Wright anvil on Craigslist a couple months ago but it sold for over two grand and was gone in a day or two-a little too rich for my meagre budget. I've sorta kept my eyes open for another anvil in better shape but they're very few and far between around here. At this moment I'm not doing anything with it anyhow but in the long term I'm leaning towards just leaving it as is. I did quite a bit of research back then and welding is certainly an option but, based on the multitude and variety of answers I got to my questions there's no guarantee that it will work. The anvil is in about the same shape as Ron's-certainly usable but not as nice as I'd like. I got the 152# anvil, a small round coal forge and a hand blower for 450 bucks CDN-not a bad deal but I still haven't had time to do anything with it. A couple years ago while my wife and I were visiting one of our daughters on Vancouver Island I spotted the anvil I mentioned above in a local Craigslist ad. I don't think that another anvil is in the budget, ever. I am never going to do more but dabble in forgings. If I could hard face it with rod and grind to shape that would be good. Mostly the edges are severely rounded as are the pritchel and hardie holes. My anvil is not a great or even good shape. The long and the short of it I am still holding out for the dream of a small forge someday here. It makes it that much harder to say, “I’ll swing by and lend a hand." The Internet certainly has opened a lot of doors but in that same token it's made people farther away. The trailer has been taking up all my time so haven't R&D’d the results yet. I have been experimenting with using files or drill rod applied with the TIG torch to some low carbon steels to see if I can create a water hardening surface that will resist chipping. Not in a hurry at all, took me 3 months to get the etching done. The hard facing can always be removed later. If you really want to get her fixed up wait till I get the shop properly tooled for a redress, or do the hard facing. The outside face on the anvils is thicker than the middle part.īesides that you want all the face you can get. I want to get it back to better condition, I was thinking of just taking the mill to it with. So what would be your advice to fix 'er up, based on the etching of the face.
But at least you will be able to see how much face you have left. IIRC the later model Peter Wrights were labeled with standard weight vs Hundred weight so yours is more than likely earlier plate top model. Send me a picture after the etch if you don't mind. Here is some email chatter Jen and I had.
0 kommentar(er)
